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(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet' 1.

D. W. THOMPSON.- COMBINED BUTTON FLY LAP AND STAYING PIECE.

N 276,926. Patented May 1,1883.

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Witnesses: Invefitor:

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UNITE STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DAVID W. THOMPSON, OF ENGLEWOODJLLINOIS. ASSIGNOR OF ONE-THIRD TO MILLER& BINGHAM, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

COMBINED BUTTON-FLY LAP AND STAYING-PIECE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 276,926, dated May 1, 1883.

ApplicationfiledNovember14,1882. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, DAVID W. THOMPSON, ofEnglewood, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented anew and useful Im- 5 provement in Combined Button-Fly Laps andStaying-Pieces for Garment-slits, of which the following isspecification.

My invention relates to the manner of forming and attaching to garmentslit-openings labor will not be required to apply them.

My invention consists, as will hereinafter be described in detail, inthe application of a strip of material having a uniform width and a hemfolded or finished edge, whichis folded in two parallel thicknesses bydoubling it with its free ends together, andhaving a transverseentrant'fold made in and between the two thicknesses of the strip at itsfolded end, to receive in each opposite side of the entrant fold andbetween its two thicknesses of material an opposite side of thegarment-slit, in which position the two edges of the strip at each sideof the entrant fold are sewed together, the strip thus producing the twoexterior fncings of the buttonhole fly, andalso both of theezn teriorfacings of the button-underlap, with the two thicknesses of the stripbelow the slit, producing an outside and inside re-enforce to theinterior and exterior surfaces of the garmentat that point. I

-Accompanying this specification and forming a part of it are two platesof drawings, containing nine figures illustrating my invention, and inall of which thesaine designation of parts by letter reference are used.

Figure 1 shows theform of the strip adapted to 5 produce my inventionwhen applied according to the process steps hereinafter to be describedand shown. Fig.2 illustrates the same form of stripcutincontinuityandrolled. Fig.3shows partof a garment containing a slinwith a dotted 0line representing the position of a stayingpiece and button-lap formedand located by my such as are formed in the backs and sleeves of shirts,the side-pocket openings of pantaloons,

strip as folded to double it from its free ends, and the manner of thetransverse entrant fold in and between the two thicknesses of its 5 5doubled-end fold, so as to receive between the 7 two thicknesses of eachside of the entrant fold one of the sides of the garment-slit forattachment. Fig. 5 shows the strip when folded as indicated at Fig. 4and applied to a garmentslit by inserting one side of the latter betweenthe two thicknesses of the strip at opposite sides of the entrant fold,with the strip atthe' top of the entrant fold out transversely, soas tomake the strip in three pieces. In this illustration a centrally-placeddotted line indicates the position of the intermediatelyplaced sideedges of the garment-slit, and a dotted line on each side of the stripdesignates the position of the stitching used to secure the parts. Fig.6 shows the parts in the position indicated at Fig. 5 when stitchedtogether on theedges of the strip, the position oftheintermediately-secured edges and sides of the slit being indicated by adotted line, with the thickness of thestri p exaggerated tobetterillnstrato it, and the strip used being in one continuous piece.Fig. 7 represents a cross section of the attached button-lap andstaying-piece and i partof the garment, taken on the line a a; ofFig.131igr8illustrates the completed attachmentof the strip withthebutton-hole fly moved off from its coincidence with thebutton-underlap to show the edge of the latter, the appearance of thefinished parts beingthe same on 8' both sides of the garment. Fig. 9illustrates in another position the strip cut so as to make the threepieces represented at Fig. 5, and which are produced from the same formof strip by making the outer folded thickness of material 90 in twoparts and the inner thickness of the entrant fold in one piece foldedback on itself.

The several parts employed and the factors used to connect them aredesignated by letter reference and described as follows:

The letter A indicates a portion of the strip of material cut from theroll A and this strip is shown as having a uniform width, and upon itsedges the hem-fold a. l 1

The letter Gr designates a part ot'agarment, and S S the sides of-a slitformed therein.

To attach the strip A to produce, when applied, my improvedbutton-hole-lap, butprocessof attachment. Fig. 4 illustrates the tonunderlap, and staying piece, the strip is .posite sides of thegarment-slit, as shown at Fig. 5.

When this has been done the two thicknesses of the strip, thus inclosingat each side the sides of the slit, are stitched through on their edges,as indicated at O O, to secure them as tl1usheld,the parts appearingasshown at Fig. 6, the two thicknesses of the strip below the slit beingstitched together on their edges, so as to intermediately include thegarmentat that point. \Vhen the strip is used in three pieces instead ofone, the pieces have the same iorm and finishas when one piece isused,they

being. folded, as shown at Fig. 4, withthe outer ends of the entrantfold A cut transversely at a a, as shown at Figs. 5 and 9, and whetherthe strip is used in three pieces or but one the process steps forattachment are the samein eitherinstanee. Thus applied either as onepiece or three pieces having the same form and folds, the strip producesthe exterior and interior facingsof the button-flyboth the exteriorl'acings of the button-underproduced by the ends of the strip below theslit, which are secured to the outer and inner surfaces of the garmentat that point, no anchor-seam or cross-seam being required, as in oldermethods designed for a like purpose.

vAnother advantage results from the use of my invention in the fact thatthe end of the slit is not made an arbitrary point of attachment thatrequires exactness and care in cutting or tearing in the slit and anecessary coincidence in length between it and the folds or pieces ofthe strip used, as is the case with the older methods in use for thesame purpose. In applying my invention this care and exactness areunnecessary, for the slit may extend below the bottom of the entranttold in the strip, asindicated at n, Fig. 6, without weakeningtheattachment in the least. The strip from which the piece is cut to formthe buttonfly, button-underlap, and stay by my method is folded with itshem-folded edges intermediately placed when attached, and these edgesmay be hem-folded, as I have shown them, or

made with any equivalent fold or finish upon them;

In a patentgranted to me November 7,1882, for an attachment togarment-slits for the same purpose as that described herein, a piece ofmaterial is shown as used having two widths, the wider part of which, bymeans of a central slit in the piece and a centrally-placed.

longitudinal entrant fold, is adapted to inclosc and secure by means ofa gutter-seam thus formed one side of the garment-slit, and so producein continuity from this double width of the piece, as foldedlongitudinally, the outer and inner facings of the button-fly lap, and

from the subtending half-width of the piece,

when transversely folded at the bottom of the garment slit and turnedup, the outer facing of the underlap. My invention described hereindiffers from the older method named in the fact that the outer and innerfacings of the button-fly lap, and as well the outer and inner facingsof the under-lap, are made from a piece ofmaterial having a uniformwidth, no longitudinal central entrant fold or gutterseam being used,the only entrant fold employed being a transverse one across its width,and not a longitudinal one.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secureby Letters Patent,

.1. In combination with a garment-slit,as't17ip of material made of auniform width-and with hem-folded or finished edges, and which strip isdoubled in thickness at its free ends, having a transverse entrant foldmade between the two thicknesses ofits doubled end, with the doubledfree ends ofthe strip subtending the bottom of the entrantfold, audwitheach one of the sides of the garment-slit secured between the twothicknesses at each coincidently opposite side of the entrant fold bystitching the edges of the two thicknesses of the latter, so as .toinclude the said sides of the slit, with the two edges of the doublethickness of the strip below the entrant fold 'stitched together, so asto include between them the material of the garment at that point, asand for the purposes herein described.

2. A combined button-hole fly,button-underlap, and bottom stay for agarment-slit, made from a strip of uniform width, with a'hemfolded orfinished edge, which strip is doubled,

IIO

with a transverse entrant fold in its folded end,

with its free ends subtending the bottom of the entrant fold, and hassecured between the two thieknessesof each one of its sides acoincidently opposite side of the garment-slit by sewing the edges ofthe double thicknesses of each side of the entrant fold, and with thesubtending ends of the strip sewed together upon their edges to includethe garment be-

